Most Beautiful Mountain In The World Climbing Alpamayo (8 days)

Most Beautiful Mountain In The World Climbing Alpamayo (8 days)

Alpamayo mountain is one of the most beautiful ice faces of the Andes. It is located more remotely than most other peaks in Cordillera Blanca, as the hike to the BC takes 2-3 days (see below). In the first map of Cordillera Blanca from 1932 Alpamayo was not indicated at all! Eventually it was climbed for the first time in 1957 by a German expedition via the N ridge.

Nowadays Alpamayo mountain is well-known and was even elected the most beautiful mountain in the world. It is not the difficulty that inspires the climbers but it’s magnificent setting among the everlasting snowcapes of the Cordilliera Blanca, 6000 meters above sea level.

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz (3100m) – Cashapampa (2900m) – Llamacorral (3 750 m.). Starting from Huaraz, we drive down the length of the Callejón de Huaylas, the deep valley west and parallel to the main chain of the Cordillera Blanca, to the town of Caraz. From here, we leave the paved road and drive through fields of corn, oats, quinoa and other crops to the village of Cashapampa, at the entrance to the Quebrada Santa Cruz. Here we load our gear on burros and begin the trek to Base Camp. The walk in takes two days, the first to the small plain next to a lake at Ichiccocha at about 3850 meters (12,600 feet).

 Day 2: Llamacorral – Base Camp (4 200 m.). On day 2 we arrive at Base Camp after about 3 or 4 hours of walking. Base Camp is a lovely place nestled in among the Queñual trees next to a small stream, at 4300 meters (14,100 feet) in altitude. This will be our home for the next few days.

 Day 3: Base Camp – Moraine Camp  – Base Camp.- Normally, we make a carry to Camp One at about 4880 meters (16,000) feet and then return to Base Camp for the night. Camp One is situated just below the glacier on polished slabs of granite.

 Day 4: Base Camp – Moraine Camp.- Move up to Camp One. We will have the help of porters for this move.

 Day 5: Moraine Camp  –  High Camp (5 300 m.).- Move to Camp Two, again with the help of porters. This is a big day, and not easy if one is not acclimated. Camp Two is quite high, at about 5500 meters (18,000 feet), located in the high pass between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Not far above Camp One we start our climb up the glacier. This is generally quite easy until some 150 meters (500 feet) below the pass. Above we climb on steepening snow and ice, occasionally belaying as necessary to reach the col. High Camp is usually located just past the very high point of the col, and down very slightly on the west side.

 Day 6: High Camp – Alpamayo summit (5 947 m.) – High Camp. Summit day. Rising early, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the Southwest Face proper. Normally we try to time our arrival at the base of the technical climbing to coincide with dawn. But other climbers and conditions on the route may suggest an earlier or later start to the climb. Descent is quick, rappelling the route of ascent. Normally we are able to return to High Camp by late in the afternoon. We'll plan on spending the night again in this camp.

 Day 7: High Camp – Base Camp.- After our climb of the summit we pack up our gear and descend to Base Camp.

 Day 8: Return to Huaraz. -